12/13/2023 0 Comments Xantrex link 10![]() ![]() With enough solar the refrigerator can run off the solar system by itself during good sunlight and still supply a reasonable charge to the house battery. ![]() If solar panels are installed, they normally will keep the batteries topped off without the need to plug into an alternate power source. For boon docking purposes, the house battery is a crucial element of the vehicle and needs to be kept as fully charged as possible. When using light loads or less, the alternator will charge the house battery. ![]() When running the motor at high idle the alternator will help offset energy being pulled out of the house battery. The inverter primarily runs off the house battery but is frequently tied to the engine system to aid with heavy load demands (such as the microwave) that may be used. The AC section of the vehicle usually incorporates an inverter and typically controls battery charging as well as supplying alternating current to devices such as a microwave. Standard builds frequently include wiring circuits for the AC and DC outlets that are located throughout the van. Both starting and house systems can contain one or more batteries each. The secondary battery system is what supplies DC to the cab while you’re camping and is referred to as the house battery. The majority of vans coming off the line (including my own) have two DC systems that serve separate functions, one as the engine starting system and the other as a secondary 12 volt power supply. It’s composed of both an AC and DC section. The electrical system is heart of my vehicle. Just be aware that asking for a specialty item to be installed might make you the beta tester for that item. From the beginning I want to make note that there are several equipment options available out there other than what SMB offers. This section will go into more detail about RV electrical systems and components. This exercise may also help you understand the wiring better.ĭon't throw out the Xantrex, my bet is that it really does work.I went over the air conditioner system and covered some issues with AC (alternating current) power in the previous posting (part 9). Disconnect the existing connections of the battery bank to the alternator and the engine block then wire up the alternator to the battery through the shunt with temporary cables so that you can see it operate. I suggest you need to bring it back to the basics. I know it can be very confusing following someone else's wiring around and even more difficult in a boat. My engine start battery is cabled separately to the Alternator so its -ve goes to the engine block (my alternator -ve is not isolated) but the "house battery" bank which is being monitored by the Link 10 goes from the engine block to the shunt then to the -ve. ![]() I always know what is going into or out of my batteries. I have a Link 10 system which I installed myself 4 years ago and apart from small tweaks to special set-up parameters to better match my batteries for calculation of the %charge display, I have found it to be the best thing since sliced bread. It sounds to me like there is some other connection from the ground/block of the engine to the -ve of the battery being measured which electrically bypasses the shunt for alternator charging purposes. Remember the -ve terminal of the battery bank being measured must be the ONLY cable to the low side of the shunt and no other connection to the -ve terminal other than the cables which may go to the -ve terminal of batteries in parallel for the battery bank being measured. There must be an alternative current path from the alternator to the -ve of the battery bank. After all, the Xantrex is just a highly sensitive voltmeter reading voltage drop across the shunt and converts that to a current display. Somehow the current from the Alternator is not passing through the shunt. I agree with PVB, if it measures current from the battery charger then it is most unlikely to be the instrument but more likely the electrical position of the shunt. ![]()
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